Ashy, Dry Skin in Winter: A Dermatologist-Guided Routine for Melanin-Rich Skin

By the Absolut Skin Editorial Team | Medically reviewed by Dr. Romario Thomas, Board-Certified Dermatologist | Last reviewed: Oct 2026

Every winter the same thing happens: skin that looked even and glowing in August starts to look dull, grey or chalky by November — on the face, but especially on the shins, elbows, knees and hands. In melanin-rich skin this has a name most people grew up hearing: "ashy." It is one of the most common winter skin complaints in deeper skin tones, and one of the most fixable.

Quick answer: Ashy skin is dry skin. When the outer layer of the skin loses water, dead skin cells lift and scatter light, and against a deeper skin tone that shows up as a grey or white cast. Cold air, low humidity, indoor heating and long hot showers make it worse in winter. The fix is a gentler cleanse, a richer barrier-supporting moisturizer applied to damp skin, less exfoliation and daily SPF — most people see a visible difference within one to two weeks.

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What "Ashy" Skin Actually Is

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is made of flattened skin cells held together by lipids such as ceramides. When that layer is well hydrated, the cells lie flat and smooth and reflect light evenly. When it dries out, the edges of those cells lift and loosen, and the surface scatters light instead of reflecting it.

On any skin tone, that looks like dryness. On deeper skin tones, the contrast between the lighter, dry surface cells and the richer color underneath makes it far more visible — the grey, powdery or chalky look we call ashy. Researchers who study skin of different ethnic backgrounds describe "skin ashing" as a distinct concern in skin of color, driven largely by that background color and partly by differences in how dead skin cells shed. [¹]

Some studies have also reported lower ceramide levels in the outer skin layer of people with darker skin, although these studies are small and differences between individuals are often larger than differences between groups. [¹] The practical takeaway is the same either way: deeper skin tones benefit from keeping the barrier well supplied with lipids, particularly in winter.

Why Winter Makes It Worse

A review of the research on climate and skin concluded that low humidity and low temperatures lead to a general decrease in skin barrier function, make skin more vulnerable to mechanical stress like rubbing, and make it more reactive to irritants. [²] In practice, winter stacks several barrier stressors at once:

• Cold, dry outdoor air pulls water out of the skin faster.
• Indoor heating and air conditioning lower the humidity inside, so skin keeps losing water even when you are home.
• Long, hot showers feel good in cold weather but strip the lipids that keep skin supple.
• Wind and scarves or wool add friction to skin that is already fragile.
• Summer routines carried into winter — foaming cleansers, frequent exfoliating acids, lightweight gel moisturizers — that worked in humidity but are too drying now.

A note on dark marks: dry skin is more easily irritated, and in melanin-rich skin, irritation and scratching can leave behind post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — dark patches that can last for months. [³] Keeping skin comfortable in winter is also a way of protecting your tone.

Ashy Skin, a Damaged Barrier or Eczema? How to Tell

What you notice	Likely ashy, dry skin	Likely a damaged barrier	Worth checking for eczema
Look	Grey, white or dull cast; fine flakes	Tight, rough, sometimes shiny and dry at once	Thickened, rough patches that may look dark brown, purplish or grey
Feel	Tight after washing, mildly itchy	Products that never bothered you now sting	Persistent, intense itch, often worse at night
Where	Shins, elbows, knees, hands, cheeks	Usually the face, where actives are applied	Inner elbows, behind knees, neck, hands, eyelids
With a gentle, rich routine	Improves within 1–2 weeks	Recovers within 2–6 weeks	Often needs a dermatologist's treatment plan

If your face stings with every product, start with our guide to sensitive skin vs. a damaged skin barrier — the reset plan there and the winter routine below work well together.

The Winter Swap: What to Change From Your Summer Routine

You do not need a completely new routine for winter. Most people only need to change a few steps.

Step	Summer	Winter
Cleanser	Foaming or clarifying, twice daily	Mild, non-stripping; a quick rinse or light cleanse in the morning is often enough
Exfoliation	Acids 2–3 times a week if tolerated	Cut back to once a week, or pause if skin feels tight or stings
Moisturizer	Lightweight lotion or gel	Cream with barrier lipids (ceramides) and emollients (shea butter, squalane)
Sunscreen	Daily SPF	Still daily SPF — UV continues to darken existing marks in winter
Body	Lotion when needed	Cream or ointment straight after every shower

If you use a retinol or exfoliating acids, you can usually keep them — just reduce the frequency and always follow with a richer moisturizer. Our guide to glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid explains which exfoliant is gentlest when your skin is dry (lactic acid adds hydration alongside exfoliation).

A Dermatologist-Guided Winter Routine for Melanin-Rich Skin

Morning

Step 1 — Cleanse gently. Use lukewarm water and a mild, non-stripping cleanser — or simply rinse if your skin is very dry. Pat dry with a soft towel; do not rub.

Step 2 — Calm and hydrate. A serum with soothing ingredients such as centella asiatica or beta-glucan helps skin feel more comfortable while the barrier recovers.

Step 3 — Moisturize on damp skin. Apply a cream with ceramides and emollients while skin is still slightly damp, which helps hold in more water.

Step 4 — Protect. Finish with broad-spectrum SPF every morning, even on grey days. If white cast has put you off sunscreen before, see our guide to sunscreen for darker skin tones.

Evening

Step 1 — Cleanse. Same mild cleanser. If you wear sunscreen or makeup, cleanse thoroughly but gently.

Step 2 — Treat (if your skin is comfortable). This is where retinol or a brightening serum goes — two or three nights a week in winter rather than nightly if you notice dryness.

Step 3 — Seal. Use a richer night cream. On very dry patches — the corners of the nose, around the mouth, the cheekbones — a thin layer of a plain occlusive such as petrolatum over your moisturizer can help overnight. Skip this step on acne-prone areas.

Ashy Knees, Elbows, Shins and Hands: Body Care That Works

The American Academy of Dermatology's advice for dry skin applies directly to winter ashiness on the body: [⁴]

• Keep showers short and warm, not hot. Use a mild cleanser, and focus it where you need it rather than lathering the whole body.
• Moisturize immediately after bathing, while skin is still damp. Creams and ointments are generally more effective than lotions for very dry skin.
• Pat, don't rub, when you dry off.
• Avoid fragrance and harsh soaps, including deodorant bars, on dry areas.
• Use a humidifier in the bedroom during heating season.
• Wear soft, breathable fabrics against the skin, with wool as an outer layer.
• Apply hand cream after every hand wash.

For knees and elbows that stay rough, consistent moisturizing does more than scrubbing. Harsh physical scrubs can irritate and, in deeper skin tones, leave darker patches behind.

What to Realistically Expect

Timeframe	What is typical
First few days	Less tightness after cleansing. The grey cast looks softer within hours of moisturizing on damp skin.
Weeks 1–2	Visible flaking and ashiness reduce noticeably with consistent twice-daily moisturizing.
Weeks 2–6	If the barrier was also irritated, comfort and texture keep improving. Dark marks from earlier irritation fade more slowly and need daily SPF.

Ashiness comes back quickly if you stop moisturizing, so think of the winter routine as maintenance through to spring rather than a one-time fix. Individual results vary.

The Absolut Skin Winter Barrier Routine

The Sensitive Skin Essentials Bundle ($65.99) follows the same cleanse, calm, moisturize and protect structure as the winter routine above:

• Gentle Hydrating Cleanser — aloe vera, allantoin and glycerin in a mild, non-stripping cleanser. Directions: massage a small amount onto wet skin, then rinse with lukewarm water, morning and evening.
• Soothing Serum — centella asiatica, licorice root extract and beta-glucan to help skin feel calm and comfortable. Directions: press a few drops into clean skin morning and evening, before moisturizer.
• Protective Moisturizing Cream — ceramides, shea butter and vitamin E to support the skin barrier and lock in hydration. Directions: massage into face and neck after your serum, morning and evening.
• SPF 50 Moisturizing Sunscreen — broad-spectrum protection with vitamin E and aloe vera as the last morning step. Directions: apply generously 15 minutes before sun exposure and reapply at least every 2 hours, and after swimming or sweating. Do not use on broken or irritated skin.

For extra-dry or mature skin at night: the Rich Rejuvenating Cream, with peptides, squalane and niacinamide, is a richer option for the evening seal step. Directions: massage into face and neck after your serum.

For itchy dry patches on the body: Corticosoothe Anti-Itch Cream contains 1% hydrocortisone for temporary relief of itching associated with minor skin irritations. Directions: adults and children 2 years and older, apply a thin layer to the affected area no more than 3–4 times daily. Do not use on broken skin. Stop use and ask a doctor if the condition worsens or lasts more than 7 days.

Who may find this routine suitable: normal, dry and sensitive skin that turns dull, tight or ashy in cold weather, and anyone whose summer routine now feels too drying.

Who may need a different approach: skin with suspected eczema or psoriasis, cracked or bleeding skin, or a rash that keeps coming back — see a dermatologist first.

Precaution: For external use only. Avoid contact with eyes. Stop use if irritation develops. Patch test first if your skin is sensitive.

Shop Dryness & Barrier →

When to See a Dermatologist

See a dermatologist if your skin is still dry, flaky or itchy after two to three weeks of a gentle routine; if skin cracks, bleeds or becomes painful; if the itch keeps you up at night; if you notice thick, rough or darkened patches, which can be eczema in deeper skin tones; or if dark marks keep appearing where your skin has been dry or scratched. Very dry skin can need a prescription treatment, and persistent dryness can be a sign of an underlying condition. [⁴]

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my skin look ashy only in winter?

Cold air, low humidity and indoor heating all increase water loss from the skin, and hot showers strip the lipids that hold water in. [²] Drier surface cells lift and scatter light, which shows up as a grey cast on deeper skin tones.

Will drinking more water fix ashy skin?

Staying hydrated is good for your health, but there is little evidence that drinking extra water on its own fixes dry skin. Ashiness is mainly about water leaving the outer layer of the skin, which is why a moisturizer applied to damp skin makes the biggest difference.

Can oily skin still get ashy?

Yes. Oily skin can still be dehydrated, especially if you use strong cleansers to control oil. Skin that feels tight and oily at the same time is a common sign. Switch to a gentler cleanser and keep a moisturizer, even a lighter one.

Should I stop exfoliating in winter?

Not necessarily, but most people should exfoliate less often. Once a week is usually enough, and if your skin stings or feels tight, pause until it feels comfortable again.

Do I really need sunscreen in winter?

Yes. UV exposure continues in winter and can darken existing dark marks in melanin-rich skin. A moisturizing SPF as the last morning step does double duty.

Is it okay to use petroleum jelly on my face?

A thin layer over your moisturizer can help seal in water on very dry areas. It can feel heavy and may not suit acne-prone areas, so use it where you need it rather than all over.

Not sure whether your skin is dry, dehydrated or sensitive? Get a personalized recommendation in the Absolut Skin app.

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This article is for general educational purposes and is not a substitute for medical advice. Individual results vary.

References

[¹] Rawlings AV. Ethnic skin types: are there differences in skin structure and function? Int J Cosmet Sci. 2006;28(2):79–93. doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00302.x

[²] Engebretsen KA, Johansen JD, Kezic S, Linneberg A, Thyssen JP. The effect of environmental humidity and temperature on skin barrier function and dermatitis. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016;30(2):223–249. doi:10.1111/jdv.13301

[³] Davis EC, Callender VD. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation: a review of the epidemiology, clinical features, and treatment options in skin of color. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2010;3(7):20–31. PMC2921758

[⁴] American Academy of Dermatology. Dermatologists' top tips for relieving dry skin. aad.org